Sewing Machine -
Automatic Answering Service
"Mirrophone" wire ribbon recorder/player
- Bell Chime
When asked "How do I make a
Bell Chime chime" the following responses were contributed by various ATCA
and TCI club members:
I have a Northern Electric
QCY1A1 bell/chime that I presume would be similar to the unit Ronald has.
It has a 4908A Network as part
of it. Mine seems to work fine wired as follows:
Screw Terminal 4 to Ring
Screw Terminal 4 BLK Ringer
Screw Terminal 4 Blue wire
goes to Terminal G (soldered)
Screw Terminal 6 to TIP
Screw Terminal 6 Green wire
go to terminal B (soldered)
Screw Terminal 1- not
Screw Terminal 2 -SLATE (grey)
Screw Terminal 2 - SLATE/RED
(grey with red stripe) Ringer Lead
Screw Terminal 3 - not
Screw Terminal 7 - RED
Screw Terminal 7 - RED Wire
to terminal A
Solder Terminal A - Red Wire
Solder Terminal A - SLATE to
Solder Terminal B - GREEN
Wire (see above)
Solder Terminal C - not
Solder Terminal D - YELLOW
Wire (hard to see bit it looks like this
connects to the clapper
Solder Terminal E - BLK Wire
to control switch
Solder Terminal F - No
Solder Terminal G - BLUE
wire (see above)
If you do rewire it, be sure to
note how things are now. No, if yours is totally
different, I would not tear it apart without looking into the following
The clapper is designed to
trigger contacts whenever it is to the right side.
The left most contact is pushed by the bell. When the bell is fully right
the left contact should be touching both the center and right contact.
Looks like left and right make contact slightly before left and center
make contact, but its very close.
Adjust this switch, if necessary
so that when the such that the contacts are
engaged when you hold the clapper against the right bell both are engaged.
(Selector switch should be in the Left (Ring) position.
Also, with a piece of clean bond
paper, dipped in alcohol, insert this between
the contact, close them and move it around to clean the contacts.
We Offer Personalized One-On-One
Call Us Today at (651) 787-DIAL (3425)
I don't have the diagram handy,
(hopefully someone else will supply the correct terminal numbers for the
line wires) - however from what I've seen the permanent magnet in these
ringers sometimes looses its strength to the point where the mechanism fails
to operate properly. Assuming its wired properly,
and the contacts in the internal switch are clean, success can sometimes
be had to make these things work by carefully adjusting the bias springs.
Another method to add new life to these things was to add an external
magnet to the unit strapped to the existing magnet... (use a nylon
tye wrap perhaps) - I would think that the poles should match - ie N to
N and S to S, but I've never tried it myself.
Remember - never ever disassemble
the "magnetic circuit" of a phone ringer
though, or it will never ring again - many people have found this out
the hard way. That is, don't remove either the magnet, armature, or frame
from the assembly, as the magnet will very quickly loose its strength.
I have repaired a few of these
and they are quite delicate. There is a set of contacts that cane be
CAREFULLY adjusted. The first thing is to gently clean the contacts either
with a contact cleaner or a very fine orange stick. (a.k.a., wooden nail
file that can be purchased anywhere.)
When the chime is chiming these
contacts rock back and forth making contact to swing the bell stem back and
forth. Now if the contacts are ok the bell stem or mechanical part of the
bell may have a problem.
If this is the case you can try
to adjust the bell which can take some time but can be done to get the unit
to chime. If the bell's mechanical parts are damaged in any way it is much
easier to replace the bell as the contacts are not a permanent part of the
Usually these chime units are
damaged either in storage or while being roughly handled so if all else
fails most members might have one for sale but make sure the chime unit
works before you get it. Hope this helps. Also try the mechanical
adjustments first such as adjusting the bias spring on the bell or the
distance of the bell gongs from center as adjusting the contacts can be a
I have several of these and they
can be the most frustrating to get the chime
to work. There is a set of points or what looks like a simple switch hook
that pulls the clapper to the high gong when ringing begins and
drops it back to the low gong when ringing stops. They seem to be sensitive
to ringing voltage as well. I got one working fine on the simulator
but hen it refused to work on the Tel line. It's a combination of adjusting
the points as well as the 3 position bias spring. I wouldn't
be able to write instructions to cover it all.
I have spent hours on some of
them, one must have the patience of a monk.
Perhaps that is one reason they were discontinued.